Man Who Fell to Earth (C3/C4?)

 

Comments from Scott Ghiz:

 

I rope-soloed most this route in July, 2000 over two attempts.  The first attempt was on a whim and I really knew that I didn't have the correct gear to finish it.  I suppose I knew it was more of a reconnaissance mission.  My second attempt I came better prepared with the right gear, but not the correct mental attitude.  

 

The free version of this climb ('Uphill All The Way', 5.12) exits the arch/corner half way up leaving the original aid line, now called 'Man Who Fell to Earth'.  Start as for 'Uphill All The Way', C1 to a funky hooking sequence of hook moves to a bomber medium cam.  Continue up the arch past the spot where the free route moves left and out.  Go to the top of the arch where the rock becomes a little rotten on sketchy brass nuts and ball nuts.  At the top of the arch, move right to the notch shared with 'Where Fools Rush In'. 

 

I only got to the top of the arch, about 8 feet left of the notch.  Someone else can finish it.  Please let us know your impressions of the finished climb.  There is a small chance that you could rip all of your gear down to the point where the free route moves left when you are near the top of the arch.  If this happens you might hit the boulders below or (worse) pendo out-of-control into the big tree at the base.  Have fun.  It CAN be done, just not by me, not right now.  Email me for more details.

 


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